Tricker's Legend boots in colour no. 8

Customers will know that, every year, we work with Tricker's of Northampton to create an exclusive motorcycle boot. There's normally only ever one production of it, and the numbers are always limited. 

 

But whilst these collaborations with Tricker's are always rather special, this particular one is just that bit more special. And that's because this particular boot is made from Chromexcel leather from the Horween Leather Company in Chicago. And it's in their iconic Colour no. 8.

 

Tricker's is not just any old bootmaker. They are the oldest bootmaker in the country. The King is a patron; and indeed the company has a Royal Warrant. Many people consider Tricker's to be the greatest name in gentlemen's boots. They have been making boots since 1829, seven years before Queen Victoria came onto the throne. And have been working out of the same factory in the centre of Northampton since 1904. It is here that the company's skilled and time-served craftsmen and women still make Tricker's boots by hand, the same way they always have done.

 

The process is always the same. The chosen leather will be cut or 'clicked' by hand around a set of dies that are particular to a given style. When all these pieces are ready they are passed to the ladies who sew the panels together. From there the leather is formed over a last where it is pinned and left to mould in to shape. After some days, the boot's upper is sewn to a welt by means of a Goodyear welting machine. The welt is a strip of leather that runs around the lower edge of the upper. A cork-filled midsole that incorporates a wooden shank is then sewn through the welt and the outsole. From there the boot will be finished by hand to remove any imperfections. Finally, the boot is 'mopped' and inspected before being boxed up. Every single pair will have had more than three hours of labour expended upon them.

 

All handmade shoes and boot are special, but there is something particularly distinctive about a pair of Tricker's boots; the knowledge that they have been made in the same way for nearly 200 years. And the realisation that they have been worn by so many prime ministers, presidents and kings. They are special.

 

Now Chicago's Horween Leather Company was founded in 1905. For more than a hundred years and five generations their goal has been to make the world's finest leathers. In their words, making the best means doing lots of little things right. 'It means never mistaking the fastest or the cheapest for the best'. The formula for Chromexcel, which the company admits is its favourite and most famous leather, was originally committed to paper in 1913. Very little has changed since although whale oil, for example, has been replaced with other more acceptable marine oils. CXL (Chromexcel) is what is known as a combination tanned leather. 89 separate processes, implemented over 28 days, are required to bring it to fruition.

 

Whenever we work with Tricker's we will end up basing our boot on a style that is already in the archives. On numerous occasions, as is the case here, we have used their famous Stow model as the basis for our boot.

 

Our trademark has become a gearchange pad that runs all the way across the toe. And the 'faux' ankle protector. We obviously get to select the leather. We then get to decide the decorative components. Whether we want brogueing, and if so, where. What kind of heel. Whether we want a 'through'. Contrast detailing in the welt. Speed hooks for lacing. What type of laces. What colour for the boot strap. A Dainite sole or a Commando one. And so on.

 

For this boot we've kept things simple. We've avoided any brogue detailing, because we wanted a slightly more rugged and plainer look. This having been said, it's a boot that will dress up very nicely. Okay, you wouldn't go dancing in them, and the maitre'd at the Savoy Grill might turn his nose up a bit if you wore them to Sunday lunch. But they will work fine with any type of country wear, or a pair of cavalry twill or moleskin pants. And of course they will look great with a pair of jeans.

 

Our Tricker's boots are not EN 13634 accredited as PPE. It just isn't worth doing that for 50 pairs of boots. But the truth is that there probably aren't many, if any, CE-approved, ankle boots out there that are tougher or more protective. Take a look at what's on offer in your local Infinity or Sportsbikeshop. I have to tell you that nothing comes close.

 

The boots don't have a waterproof membrane, but they are still going to be impressively waterproof; and that's to do with the oils and waxes impregnated in the leather. Okay, you might defeat them if you rode all day in heavy rain. But this is probably not the boot for such a ride. We are not claiming that these boots are waterproof, but to all intents and purposes these boots will keep your feet dry.

 

We have made just 50 pairs. Whether we will be able to do another run is unknown, but it's unlikely. We have never made more than a hundred pairs of any Tricker's boot; and if we did get the opportunity to use Horween's Chromexcel again we would probably add some brogueing, or even go for another colour.